# Pfaff 240

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CPFAFFD

INSTRUCTION B00K

CPFAFFD

Automatic 332-260 iNSTRUCTIONS

FOREWORD Your dream has come true! atic You are now the proud owner of a PFAFF 332-260 Autom

the sewing machine with unlimited possibilities.

more fun e and give you valuable tips to make sewing This instruction book will help you understand the machin for you. PFAFF this book a valuable guide to easy sewing Even if you are on experienced seamstress, you will find —

¶1

G-M.PFAFFAG Sewing Machine Factory Ka ise rsta utern

4

5 /

6

I 5-

14-

R 7379 1 2

Thread take-up lever Top control cover (A)

3

Dial (B)

4

Embroidery pattern length lever (E) Buttonhole slide lever

5 6

Bobbin winder

7 8 9 10 11 12

Slop motion knob Stitch length stop control Stitch length (forward-reverse) lever Light switch Drop feed control Needle plate

2

13

free arm cover (enclosing transve rse rotary sewing hook)

14

Needle

15

Upper tension

16 17

SewlighI swing-out fever Needle position lever (C)

18

Stitch width control (D)

19 20 21 22 23

30

j 9 — 2

R 7383

20

Balance wheel Collapsible 5pOol pins

21

Top cover

22

Face cover Presser bar lever

19

23

24 25

27

Sewing foot Snap-out workplate

28

Free arm

26

29 30 32

Sewlight Needle set screw

33

Free arm fop cover

31

3

Receptacle for foot control plug Receptacle for power cord plug

naI%.nea1s

/iac.4i,w Ceaticn

Make sure stop motion knob 6 is tightened be fore you begin sewing (cloc kwise as indicated by white arrow).

Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel a, 0 turn it toward you (counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow).

Raise presser bar lever c and place both threads under and behind the sewing foot. Slide ma terial under needle, low er sewing foot and you’re ready to sew. ——

4

Never run a threaded machine unless you have fabric under the presser foot.

R 6808

Luqctant 7cins ic A woman sewing by hand will nor mally draw one stitch tight before making another. On a sewing ma chine, this is done automatically by take-up lever d.

chine under

I

t

Therefore, always turn the balance wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe this rule may cause the thread to tangle under the needle plate or slip out of the needle eye.

The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot automatically. All you have to do is guide the work. Never try to hasten feeding by pushing or pulling the fabric while stitching because the needle may bend or break. 5

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‘7he $nq-Cs.t tOorkvtae Your PFAFF Automatic has a snap-out workplate which can be raised to give you a full size work area for flat sewing and embroi dery. To raise workplate, pull it out to the left as for as it will go, then lift it until it is flush with the needle plate. Now let it snap into position. When you want to use the free arm for darn ing, lower the workplote, proc eeding in re verse order. Larger articles may require a larger work surface. To further increase the sewing area, attach the workptate extension which is in the carrying case. Swing out the colla psible legs. 6 cL2c&iat Dn&Hssthn Place the foot control under the table within easy reach of your foot. Place your foot on the control and press. The harder you press, the faster the machine will run. During pauses in stitching, completely remove your foot from the control do not allow it to rest there. Make sure that the voltage indicated on the motor label (110 V) corresponds to the volt age in your home. (Check other appliances). Push plug I of power cord into receptacle 2 on bock of machine, and plug 3 (at other end of cord) into wall outlet 4. Conned plug of foot control cord 5 with receptacle at balancewheel end of machine. R 7132 jr 7 .1 .4 Set: Dial B —O Control D 0 — Lever E —0 Lever C Centered — Lever f regulates the stitch length and controls forward and reverse sewing. (Lever should be in vertical position be fore setting stitch length). Control e stops stitch on length desired. R6629 Forward Sewing Set eon number that indicates stitch length you want(1—5; the higher the number, the longer the stitch). Turn fright as far as it will go. Reverse Sewing Turn f left as far as it will go. (The reverse stitches will be the same length as forward stitches). 8 R 7066 A Le’ 5th dc sa cr to si R 7071 ewtn9 ifyza9 4 Lever E—O DiolB—O Set: Turn control D left to desired stitch width (indicoted by numbers I to 4; the higher the number, the wider the stitch). Do not move C or D while needle is in fabric. 2 A Lever f lengthens zigzag stitches or pocks them more closely together. To form the satin stitch graduolly de crease stitch length almost to 0 until you get the de sired effect. Al Lever C changes needle position from left to right. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the needle plate slot. To change needle position, press ever C down and mov, into: Notch I The needle is at the extreme left of the needle plate slot in straight sewing and swings to the right in zigzag stitching. Notch 2— The needle is centered is the needle plate slot in straight sewing, and swings both ways in zigzag stitching. Notch 3—The needle is at the extreme right of the needle plate slot in straight sewing, and swings to the left in zigzag stitching. Pointer z indicates the position of the needle on the top scale. — 9 __ _ R 6631$etémn9 4 /i’Za i n €. 6,t Au,iatic Set:

6 c z 1.m i?eg

Lever E.-3

Swing back the cover on control A. Your embroidery design dial shows all the pri mary designs you con make with the Automatic. Pick your design and turn the dial so it points to that design. The numbers in the slot indicate the machine dial settings which will give you the design you have chosen. For example: Turn A (clockwise) so 3 is oppo site n. Turn B (clockwise) so 5 is at top.

B D

Set stitch length lever f (page 8) so stitches are closely pack ed. If embroidery design dial show s no symbol for lever C or cont rol D, disregard them. For such designs C and D will operate automatically. Do not touch them. 10

R7072

A B C D A If a won ,,1,, C

AB Ea c con pea poi fou len

sett dis

appears in If number 1, 2 or 3 to the ap C r box C, move leve * or 0 ow arr An propriate slot. trol con t tha es in box D indicat t righ the to ed D should be turn go without as far as it will applying force.

Au B4’ 123

if you dial exactly at “2”; or, D, you may set the box in s ear een app betw 2 a If ewhat lower, soy , you may set it som want a narrower design set above “2”. is not clear, if D is “1” and “2”. Pattern

A

R 7095

B 4, C 2 Machine Setting: A 3,

tomatic of the PFAFF Au dial A Big Advantage the embroidery design on designs pictured ap the y Each of the primary var re you can erent lengths. Therefo The th. leng con be sewn in diff the stitch tern without changing pearance of the pat seven graduations has ch whi E, trolled by lever pattern pattern length is con umbered. Maximum and 7) and three unn th by leng four numbered (1,3,5 m imu , and min setting lever E on “7” is ism han length is obtained by mec the Automatic en it is set on “0”, setting it on “1”. Wh disengaged.

A

A

I

3

Lever E at:

5

7

9 th 2o6in /Oin?in Hold balance wheel a and turn stop motion knob b all the way to the left (counter-clockwise). Place spool of thread on right-hand spool pin. The bobbin thread should always be the same size as that used on the spool, or a little finer. Pull thread from spool and lead it clockwise around thread retainer g, crossing the thread.

2

3 7100

h.

Pull it through thread guide h. bobbin, from in Pass end of thread through slot in spindle so that side. Set bobbin on bobbin winder bobbin. Press in key ot base of spindle enters slot in lever i. start machine. Hold end of threod and slowly end of thread off Having wound a few turns, break pace. faster and continue winding at a

0

when bobbin Bobbin winder will stop automatically is full. press out lever i If you don’t wont a full bobbin, been wound. has thread of t when sufficient amoun

are winding bobbin You may continue sewing while you wheel. e without disconnecting balanc

R71O0

7

6 R7067

R 7099 R 7097

_________

66 Case o 3 9 i9idt 73c66in into mn .Dnwrtin

0

As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case. Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot. Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the open ing at the end of the spring. Leave about three inches of thread hanging from the bobbin case. Hold the case by its open latch, so that the bobbin cannot fall out.

6030

6in Ca5e 6 o eu.ovin the 7 Raise needle to its highest point and open cover j. Lift latch k with your forefinger. Pull out bobbin case with bobbin by holding the latch. When you release latch k, the empty bobbin drops out. 14

66 Casz c 73 tin th in 9 Dn.s Make sure the needle is still in its highest position. turn bobbin With thumb arid forefinger of left hand, lift latch k and stud I center on it place Then up. points latch of end at slot case until

I

of hook. case, it is best to hold the loose end of thread so In replacing the bobbin and hook. Release that it will not get jammed between bobbin case

I.

I

latch k.

R 7380

A Press against bobbin case until you hear it snap into place. An improperly inserted bobbin case will cquse needle breakage. Close cover 15

Typos of Fabrics

Mercerized Cotton

such as georgette, chiffon, batiste,

80 to

voile, lawn, silk.

ioo

Fine Fabrics

Lightweight Fabrics such as dress silks and cottons, sheers, woolens, shirting, dra. peries.

70 to 80

Medium Fabrics

50

such as lightweight woolens, madras, muslin, brocades, heavy silks and rayon, gabardine. Heavy Fabrics

such ascoatlng,denim, corduroy, slipcover fabrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas. Very Heavy Fabrics

such as heavy TIcKrngz, canvas, overcodting, sailcloth, up hoistery, Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon, orion, dacron, plastics, etc.

to 70

40

to 50

24 to 40

Silk

Needle Size

an ‘7h&’a? $i.c 60 or 70 A & B twist 80 90 sy 13 The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart. The same size threads should be used in the needle and on the bobbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. How ever, the bobbin thread never should be thicker than the needle thread. C&D twist E twist Determined by weight of fabric 40 to 50 Or ar 0 to 000 twist B& C twist iftuwn? /l4?e?1 90 to 110 Determined bythresdsiz 60 to 80 16 n< R 6798 Dit,1tant 9acts 4&14t /Ve&2ks On PFAFF Automatic sewing machines, System 130R, flat-shank needles are used for all ordinary sewing and embroidery work. The needle system is stamped on The needle plate. Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130, are available from every Pfoff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should not be used. qinq the /Vete C a 6 Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot. Loosen needle set screw o half a turn ,c—’tEC and pull old needle out of needle clomp. Insert new needle into opening of needle clamp and push it up as far as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of shank faces toward the back and long groove toward you. Tighten needle set screw 0. The illustration (left) shows you how the needle clamp works. The needle set screw presses against the tapered needle positioning roller which presses against the flat side of the needle shank and holds the needle in place. 17 Place thread on spool pin I and lead thread end through holes in thread guides 2 and 3 and through both thread retainer openings 4 (see illustration opposite). Pull thread between any two of the tension discs 5, (Fig. I) and lead it clockwise (Fig. II) until it snaps into the square notch in the tension cup (Arrow, Fig. Ill). The thread passes underneath the thread check spring which holds it down permanently. 11 Bring take-up lever 7 as high as it will go and pass thread from right to left through one of the holes at its end. Pull thread into slots at left of thread guides 8 and 9, and then into the slot at left of needle clamp 10. Then thread needle, front to back. PFAFF’s Automatic needle threader will do this for you easily and quickly. HI 18 R 7378 19 the Auiô,sate ,‘\ee1e ‘7hea?er 4 Before you begin, make sure that the needle is at its highest position when the lower hole — of the ascending take-up lever d is in line with the bottom edge of the top cover. Now lower the sewing foot and — With your left hand push threader engaging lever p up until threader prong penetrates needle eye. Keep lever p in this position. Pus its 1ev$1 Sir

Hold thread loosely and lead from left around pin q behind hook of prong w on needle threader. V Slowly lower lever p part way until prong w reverses and pulls thread through the eye. Jerk lever p up slightly so the thread ioop will fall off the prong. Release lever p. Pull thread through needle eye.

R 7068

S 7c169

I

S 7089

2

R7088

3

R7087

4

R $390 e, you When you hove had sufficient needle threading practic may shorten the procedure as follows: w so that Push lever p up. Place thread ,behind hook of prong lower Slowly its end is about 1/2 inch to the!right of the prong. loop the of lever p. Prong w now pulls end of the thread instead through needle eye. — thread Since take-up lever d is not at its highest point when you needle the h throug the needle, pull about four inches of thread eye before you begin sewing. V 9kJ winj 7 a 6t ‘7hea’ ‘3cn 1 14 the 4 A toward you Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel reaches its lever until the needle moves down and up again and take-up through up thread highest position. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin you put before foot needle plate slot. Place both threads back under sewing fabric into machine. 21 iJ u1ation 9 Ctrett 7encion 7Z Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension is correct, you will have perfect seams as sketched (Ill) below. Sketch I Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. Cause: Sketch II Cause: The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric. The threads interlock on the surface of the fabric. Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose. V A R 7374 To check whether the tensions are correctly balanced, take a closely woven piece of fabric and sew a few straight and zigzag seams. If the straight stitches are tightly drawn in on both sides of the fobric (see seam sketch Ill), the tensions ore correct. The surest way to double-check this is by examining a zigzag seam. If the zigzag seam is equally wide on surface and underside of the fabric, that is, if the threads ore locked exactly at the zigs and zags of the seom, the tension adjustment is correct. 22 utaan 9 7 ch ‘/ea 7n.on it sting, except for embroidery when Bobbin tension rarely needs adju e mod is ordinary sewing. Adtustment should be a little tighter than for bobbin case: by the small screw (x) on the on. Turn ii left c—< for looser tensi on. tensi er light Turn it right )tm for the thread end between ing hold by on Determine correct bobbin tensi freely. The g the bobbin case hang thumb and forefinger ond lettin being from to keep the bobbin case tension should be strong enough hand your jerk ht. However, as you pulled down by its own weig gradually slide down. slightly, the bobbin case should V A kt be regulated by The final stitch appearance can ws: upper tension knob (y) as follo Turn left gE( for looser tension. Turn right )*— for tighter tension. that all grades of The upper tension is so designed covered with one tension — loose to tight — can be . The numbers on complete turn of the tension knob ees of tension. degr the tension dial indicate different the tension. ter The higher the number, the grea on should be tensi r For ordinary sewing, the uppe set between 3 and 5. R 6946 t ‘Ii I: 23 __ R7O66 4 h?nth 7$uut6 9utafltn 4 Set fin neutral (vertical position). Set e so its pointer is on the indicator scale number corresponding to the desired stitch length. Turn lever f to the right as far as it will go. To sew backwards, turn lever f toward the left as far as it will go. Control e stops stitch length, 1 to 5, on indicator scale. Stitch length may also be regulated by turning e all the way left arid fin the forward sewing position as far as it will go. Sew a few stitches and regulate the stitch length by turning f slowly toward the left until desired stitch length is obtained. To hold the stitch length in position, turn e right )— until it stops.

zc2inf7 7

tli? , 1ac4ine 4

The machine feed is dropped for darning, hoop embroidery and button sewing. To lower feed below the needle plate, turn drop feed control v clockwise. Fabric will When control v is turned to the right as far as it Wii go, ieedng of the fabric resumes automatically when you start sewing. 24

R 6029

R 7085

n the \$e,uin 9ctt 7 i 9 Chan Lift both needle and presser bars to their highest positions and turn screw c to the left. The screw usuaily can be loosened by hand, but if it is too tight, use a screw driver. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down. Slip on new foot and tighten screw c.

R7086

Remove the sewing foot. Attach darning foot from the rear. Hold spring clip b so that it is behind the needle set screw, and tighten screw c. Attach darning hook d as illustrated so that when you lower presser bar lever e, the darning foot will stay in position. Remember to lower presser bar lever e so that the upper tension is activated.

25

t

aintenani 4 Ca an , regular Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on and proper cleaning and oiling. animal Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate machine with or vegetable oils. Remove all lint before oiling. advis All moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication. It is removing by Begin able to establish a pattern when oiling your machine. the needle plate and oiling the mechanism in the free arm. The principal oiling points ore marked by arrows.

R 7377 R 6A32

A

I I.

The raceway in the sewing hook is the most im portant oiling point. Put one drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew. A dry raceway will cause rapid wear. Don’t forget to put a drop of oil into each of the two oil holes behind the sewing foot. This is essential to keep the hook shaft bearing oiled.

;

arm can be reached The oiling points in the machine Oil should be cover. easily by removing the top of oil may quantities applied sparingly. Excessive One sluggishness. machine soil the work and cause suffice. will or two drops of oil usually lever E be— Before you remove the top cover, set and lift. back tilt it up. cover pull tween 5 and 7. To

R 7381

Oiling points in the machine head 27 :,

I

esøliqht 9aai 4 5 machine arm. Lever u swings out r The 25-waft sewlight is recessed unde the ing area. the light to illuminate a larger work To change the light bulb: . Push bulb up into socket, turn left. Swing lever u up (see arrow) and hold and pull out. slide bulb pins into bayonet socket When inserting the new bulb, be sure to slots. Press bulb in and turn right.

Press the button on the front of the machine base to switch the sewlight on and off.

Ait.sttiii

I ,4ctc e 3 1i ‘7n.%ion

d

Your PFAFF 332 Automatic is equipped with a 30-watt electric motor (Type PE 332), which is housed in the machine base and drives the main shaft by means of a driving belt.

Ii U

If the driving belt tension needs adjustment, take out the four screws in cover t and remove. Loosen screws s and adjust idler r until correct tension is obtained.

R 6546

Idler r should be set just far enough left that it synchronizes with the belt clips and revolves evenly.

The electric motor requires no special attention, except that the brushes should be replaced after 400 hours of service.

When you tighten screw s, make sure the washer is in the correct position. 29

;

:

-

-

-

1-

---

I

-*1!

-

-

4•—

‘7ou61e 4 ShOOtUlf? 1. Machine Skips Stitches Ca use:

Remedy:

Needle incorrectly inserted.

Push needle up as far as it wilt go and be sure that the long groove faces you, and flat part of needle away from you.

Wrong needle.

The correct needle system is stamped on needle plate.

Needle bent.

Insert new needle.

Check and correct threading as instructed.

Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.

Remedy:

The above mentioned may cause thread breakage.

See remedies listed under 1. above.

Hook race is jammed with thread or needs oiling.

Clean and oil hook raceway.

Burrs or sharp edges on needle plate slot.

Polish needle plate slot with fine emery cloth. 30

I

3. Needle Breaks Cause: hook. Bent needle strikes point of sewing Needle too thin or thread too heavy. strikes Fabric pulls needle so it bends and needle plate. Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.

Remedy: er damage. Replace needle at once to prevent furth Use correct needle and thread sizes. e the material lightly. Don’t force the feeding motion. Guid into ploce. Push bobbin case until you hear it snap

4. Faulty Stitch Formation Cause: Improper tension. Thread too heavy, knotty or hard. Bobbin unevenly wound. Pieces of thread between tension discs.

the correct size for the needle and

ing the bobbin, but lead Don’t run thread over finger when wind through thread guide h. it around tension stud on top cover and on “0” and remove thread. Release upper tension by setting ii

3. Machine Feeds Improperly Cause: rise up Feed dog set too low and does not level. plate enough above needle

31

1

I

Accumulations of lint packed betweenfeedteeth.

Take off needle plate and remove lint with a stiff brush.

6. Machine Works Heavily Cause:

Remedy:

Motor belt is loose and slips, or has shrunk and causes excessive pressure an bearings.

Loosen or tighten motor belt by adjusting idler.

Hook raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by pieces of thread.

Clean and oil hook raceway.

Mechanism clogged by inferior oil.

Use only Piaff sewing machine oil

Bobbin winder working while sewing. (When a bobbin is not being filled).

Stop bobbin winder.

Snarled thread between balance wheel and bushing.

Thread Jamming If thread jams in the sewing hook mechanism and blocks it, proceed as follows: The thread will come out more easily if you put a few drops of oil or cleaning fluid into the hook raceway. Tighten the stop motion knob. Move the balance wheel away from you. Take the end of the thread and pull it out while rocking the balance wheel. If thread is still jammed, call your Pfaff dealer for help. Thread iamming can be avoided by following the instructions on pages 4 and 5. 32

Edge Stitching Machine Setting: C—2 E—0 D —0 to 4 (optional) B—C Stitch Length: 2 —4 Edge Stitcher No. 41 350. Sew parallel rows of straight or zigzag stitches at various distances from the fabric edge by using ad justable seam guide No. 53077 and the edge stitcher (without quilting gauge). The seam guide is fastened to the machine bed with the long thumb screw.

Zipper Insertion Machine Setting: E—0 C—3 B—C D—0 Stitch Length: 1 —2 Zipper Foot No. 51 300. Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper de pends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zipper. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across lower end and up the other side in one continuous opera tion. Use right edge of foot as a guide. For other types of zipper insertion, follow directions in your zipper pack age.

Quilting Machine Setting: C—2 E—0 D —0 or 2 (optional) 8—0 Stitch Length: I 2 Edge Stitcher No. 41350. Used with the quilting gauge it sews parallel rows of stitching over the entire surface of the fabric. Always guide the gauge finger along the preceding row of stitches. Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads, and covers can be quilted. —

R7104

33

41242

flp

Flat Felled Seams

E —o C-2 8—0 D —0 or 2 (oplional) Stitch Length: 1—2 Flatfelled seams are used to durably ioin two pieces of fabric. They are made in two operations. Flat felled seams usually ore straight stitched. Narrow zigzag stitches are used for felling on elasticized fabrics only. Machine Setting:

4 First Seam Lay pieces together wrong sides facing up with the bottom piece protruding inch. Feed both pieces into felling foot, as illustrated, so that the bottom fabric is folded over edge of top piece and stitched down. Make sure that protruding seam allowance is not folded twice. 1/e

R 7171

iI 1

Second Seam Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, insert seam ridge into felling foot opening, and stitch down to the left. Make sure that second seam is placed close to the edge but not beyond it. The felling foot has a needle slot, rather than a needle hole, to permit zigzag felling.

iI 34

R7154

i

I I

R 6083

11246

4626?

Rolled Hems

Hemming

Machine Setting: C—2 E—O D—2to4 (optional) B—O Stitch Length: 2 —4 Rolled hems are used to finish sheer or deli cate fabrics. For a smooth, unpuckered hem, ease thread tension slightly and set 0 on I to 3. To hem tricot fabrics increase the tension, and use the widest zigzag stitch so the hem has a rolled shell effect.

Machine Setting: C—2 E—O D—O or 2 to 4 (optional) B—O Stitch Length: 2 —4 The hemmer foot is indispensable if you want to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight orzigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using. Clip off the corner of the fabric to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot. Feed fabric so that the raw edge is in line with the left edge of the hemmer foot opening. If you feed less, the fabric will not be folded twice and the raw edge will show. Avoid ugly ends by slowing down feeding. Press the fabric against the needle plate on the left side of the foot before you come to the end of the hem.

R 7375

•1

35

R 5915

LJJ Overcasting Edges Machine Setting:

E —0 B—0 Stitch Length:

C—2 D 2 to 4 (optional) 3 —4 —

Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge. You may overcast edges 4 after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.

R 7169

R 6070

44088

Butt Seaming Machine Setting:

E —0 B—0 Stitch Length:

C-2 0—3 or 4 (optional) 1 3 —

Two similor pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted to gether and joined with zigzag stitches. Worn bed sheets may be mended this way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining pieces of sheet under the sewing foot so that the abutted edges are centered under the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches. Hem row edges of sheets. 36

R 7161

4O88

Attaching Lace Machine Setting:

E —0 B —0 C —2 D —Ito 3 Stitch Length: I 2 —

You can attach lace edging in one simple ope ration. Overlap lace on raw edge. Sew to fabric with narrow zigzag stitches, taking one stitch into lace and fabric and the other into lace only.

V

Inserting Lace B—0 E —0 C-2 D I to 3 Stitch Length: 1 —2 Pin or baste lace on fabric. Sew to gether with needle taking one stitch into fabric alone and one into the lace. Carefully trim excess fabric underneath. Machine Setting:

R 7177 -

IW V

-

------

7-

‘406e

Inserting Patches MachineSetting:

C-.2

E—O

B—O Stitch Length:

D—4 I

also be used Large holes con be patched quickly. The following method moy of the fabric. for tricot fabrics. Cut patch so that its grain will match the rest stitch of zigzag Place the potch over the damaged area. Sew it down with medium length.

j

I

R 7156

For additional strength stitch over corners twice. Turn over and trim close to seams.

38

i

R 7162 46121

Single-Needle Cording Shirring

Machine Setting:

E —o B—O Stitch Length:

C-2 D-2

—1

filler thread Trace pattern on fabric and place a foot. cording the of sole under the groove in the lightly. thread filler the hold Followthe pattern and

C —2 Machine Setting: E —0 o2 2 D—2t / 1 B—O 3 to 2 Stitch Length: Tension Upper Ease Follow above directions for shirring but place filler thread under rather than on top of the fabric. Fabric and filler thread both are guided in the groove of the foot. Width of zigzag depends on the thickness of the filler thread used. When you have finished the zigzag seam, slide material along the filler thread to distribute fullness. Finish the shirring with a line of straight stitching. Leave the filler thread in the shirring or pull it out as you straight-stitch, depending on the stress to which shirring will be exposed.

R 71S9

39

R 7152

R 7163 6612!

61

Applique Work

Machine Setting:

E —o B—O

Stitch Length

Minimum

C—2 D—V/to3

R 7155

Pin or baste applique on fabric and overcast edges. Appliques also can be attached with a satin stitch or any embroidery design.

R 7167

40

4612!

ry Openwork Embroide

Machine Setting:

E —o B—O Stitch Length:

C-2 D—Oand 21/a Minimum

ry. Let’s openwork embroide patterns excellent for of ds dre hun lines are ced There sew over all tra box illustrated. First, are squ 25the h a r wit s ide embro over straight-stitch line ight stitches. Then sew stra rt sho are g g hin usin ce twi r rows of satin stitc h. Make sure that you stitc in sat e wid mdiu me t. your squares look nea even so the corners of

R7179

.4

an attractive er square. To make ing, cut out every oth ry design ide When you finish sew bro ms with an em e flowers or free far modern design, outlin g. instead of satin stitchin

41

IL

R 7158 4O88

ScaIIopng Machine Setting: E—1-7(optional) A—5

ScII’WWk 8—3 D—2

Stitch Length: Minimum Scalloping can be done in a liffy on your PFAFF 332 Automatic. Scalloped edges can be used effectively as trimming on numerous articles. The illustrations left show how scalloping adds sparkle to a child’s collar. Here’s how to do it. First, trace collar pattern on a doubled piece of fabric. Set machine (shown above), place fabric under sewing foot and guide needle along traced line. The

Machine Setting:

E —0 B—0 Minimum

C 2 D—2to4 —

Stitch Length: Draw designs on fabric. Clamp work into embroidery hoop. As you ore following the scrollwork outline with wide satin stitches, move hoop right, then left, alternating the rhythm and the direction of your movements. An exciting note may be added by using variegated thread.

‘V

scallops ore produced automati cally. You may vary the length of the scallops by changing the setting of lever F (see sketch). When you have finished, trim excess fabric along scalloped edge.

87168

42

R7150

II

•1I •

-i-’.

-

Imitation Hemstitching /s D 21 B —0 C —2 Machine Setting: E —0 Stitch Length: 1 —1/s Increase Tensions handkerchiefs, blouses, dresses, and so forth, on effects hemstitching Beautiful can be made with Pfaff’s System 130 (wing) needle available at Pfaff stores at extra cost. Loosely woven fabrics, such as batiste, organdy, georgette, etc., are well suited to hemstitching while woolly fabrics are not recommended because needle penetrations close up. Since the hemstitching needle has a slightly thicker shank, the needle set screw must be turned out far enough for insertion. The hemstitching needle cannot be threaded with the Automatic needle threader. —

Hemstitching is very simple (see sketch). I Sew first row en the left of the area to be hemstitched. 2 Step machine when needle is in tabric on the right. 3 Liti sewing toot, turn fabric in the direction of orrow, ond lower toot again. that needle penetrates 4 Sew second row, on shown in sketch, guiding material parallel to first row so needle holes of previous zigzag stitches on it descends on the right. leave needle in tabric on the lett and S If you ore making more than two lines of hemstitching, alternately right of turning pinls, pivot fabric on needle, end proceed as d,rected above.

Q

R 7138

He mstitc hi n g Hemstitching is succesful on linen and twilled fabrics. For this type of work use on ordinary needle. Draw several threads out of the fabric. Set machine for a medium-wide zigzag stitch and sew along both edges of the strip, making sure that “zigs” and “zags” in both rows ore exactly opposite each other, Set stitch length according to thread bar width you desire. Draw threads from the edge until your fringe is the length you want. Zigzag along and you will have picot this line edging. —

43

R 7140

R 7139 46669

Blindstitching Machine Setting:

I

(L j’

D —1 to 2 B —0 C —3 Stitch Length: Maximum Hemming dresses and skirts by hand is a laborious task, You can do it easily on your PFAFF on medium and heavy fabrics. Use zigzag foot No. 44088 with blindstitch guide No. 46669, which you can buy at your Pfaff store, Attach the guide so that its vertical flange goes through the sewing foot slot, Use a No.70 needle, a loose upper tension and thin thread. Next follow this procedure: Turn fabric wrong side up. On scivage edge or if bias seam binding is used on edge of hem, fold material once (Fig. I). On unselvoged fabric, fold twice (Fig. 2). It is advisable to pin or baste hem. Guide work evenly, holding top hem edge against the vertical flange of the blindstitch guide. Set 0 so that needle takes left stitch exactly in the folded edge and the right stitch up to or over the hem edge. When hem is finished, stitches will not be visible on top side.

44088

Automatic Blindstitching Used for draperies or curtains B—i Machine Setting: E —1 Stitch Length 1 _V/s C —1 A —6 g and fabrics and would medium heavy for used Blindstitchin is be visible on the right side of sheer and filmy fabrics. Therefore these fabrics should be blindstitched with the Automatic so a number of narrow and one wide zigzag stitch are sewn at regular intervals. Use thread that matches fabric and fold the hem as illustrated. Feed fold against left inside edge of foot so that narrow zigzag stitches are made on hem edge and wide stitches pierce fold. Bulky work is placed in machine with bulk of material to the left of the needle. Set lever C on “3”. 44

R 7371

—0

R 6064

Sewing Buttonholes

Machine Setting:

C 1 B —0 E —0 Stitch Length: Minimum

times while you ore making button The setting of control 0 is changed several to its previous setting, turn lever F holes. So you can easily return the control 1, so D will be caught in two clockwise, as illustrated. Put lever C in notch at “Viz” for sewing sides, n notches of the buttonhole slide, one positio corresponds to the size of setting and the other at “3” for bartacking. This up further, the stops moved is F lever ordinary lingerie buttonholes. When the parallels and both and ingly, for the stitch width setting change accord bars of the buttonhole grow wider. V

Use buttonhole foot No. 51016 and set slide on buttonhole gauge to buttonhole length de sired. If you prefer more prom R 6088 inent buttonholes, pull a filler toe left in hole the h cord throug of foot. To get the correct stitch making buttonholes in soft or length, sew on a piece of scrap material. In a piece of tissu,e paper loosely woven fabrics, it is advantageous to place tricot and knit fabrics, in under the material. To strengthen buttonholes n the fabric layers. betwee al insert a piece of firmly woven cotton materi 45

Buttonholes

fi

J

ff

CD

c

0

-a

CD

®

®

0

®

®

®

Set D at “1’/2”, C at “1”, stitch length lever fan satin stitch. Attach foot No. 51016 and adjust slide mdi cator on buttonhole gauge to length of button hole desired. lnsertfillercord through foot and sew first row, leaving the needle on the right side of the filler cord. Lift foot turn fabric clockwise using needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to the left, pull filler cord taut and lay it parallel to completed line of stitching. Switch D to “3”. Make 4—6 bartack stitches. Raise needle.

Change D to 11/2”. Trim both ends of filler cord at end of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about 4—6 stitches from end of first row, leaving needle up.

®

three fastening stitches. Trim the sewing threads Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper Be careful not to inure the bartacks

®

Buftonho can also be made without a filler cord. 46

R 7160 45720

Button Sewing Machine Setting:

E —o B—0

c—I D—Oand3to4 Drop Machine Feed

your Pfaff. Make ns, hooks, eyes or rings with Don’t be afraid to sew on butto button under the e Plac t. is at its highest pain sure the thread take-up lever enter right hole when n button so needle will the button sewing foot. Alig D is at “0”.

red over the left lly to “4”, until needle is cente Then turn 0 to the left, usua fasten button hes as you think necessary to hale. Sew as many zigzag stitc button and n hole buttons, lift foot, repositio securely. When sewing on fours. hole of hing through the second pair repeat the above process, stitc ugh one of the two or three lying stitches thro Now set D on “0” and make . ner man are attached in the same holes. Hooks, eyes, snaps, etc.

47

R 6067

Darning You will really appreciate the free arm of your PFAFF 332 when you darn sleeves and socks. Machine Setting:

E —0

B —0

C —2

D —0

Remove presser foot and drop machine feed. Use feed cover plate No. 60407 to increase tautness of fabric and permit free movement. To fasten the feed cover plate to the machine, slip its spring into the slot in the front edge of the needle plate, as illustrated.

Attach darning foot as instructed on page 25, and suspend presser bar from the rear of the face cover with darning hook No. 46128. Even though the presser bar is suspended, the presser bar lever must be lowered to activate the tension, or the upper tension will be released and the thread will am in the machine. —

Machine Setting:

E

0

B —0

C —2

D -.3

Drop feed.

Use special darning foot No. 51 050 for darning woolen socks, sweater sleeves and other woolen articles. Lace filler thread through the hole in the foot. Place thread back and forth across damaged spot (top picture) and anchor it in unworn area. Sew across filler thread with zigzag stitches (bottom picture). 48

R 6121

1.

R 5913

Tubular Articles

Thin Spots

Machine Setting: E—0 8—0 C-.2

0—0 Dropfeed.

You need no darning hoop to mend sleeves, trouser legs or socks on your PFAFE 332. Simply slip them over the free arm. Stitch back and forth across the hole, first lengthwise, then cross wise. Use a thin No. 70 needle.

Small Holes

Remember that “a stitch in time saves nine” and reinforce spots that have worn thin with short stitches made lengthwise and across worn section. Clamp fabric into darning hoop and move it freely under the needle. Long rips may be darned with the normal sewing foot and without hoop. Raise machine feed and use forward and reverse stitch lever. 49

Darn small and medium-size holes by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain. First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at high speed. Then turn the fabric at right angles and sew back and forth over preceding work. This anchors threads in the unworn atea around the hole.

Monogram Embroidery Machine Setting:

E —0 B —0

C -2 D according to desired width Drop Machine Feed —

4 Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoop, the presser bar suspended and the presser bar lever lowered. Lower needle into fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both thread ends, and sew over outline, moving hoop slowly and evenly. 7165

46121

Sewing Monograms Machine Setting:

E —0 B—0 Stitch Length:

C-2 D 2’/ to 3 Minimum —

The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Raise feed and set machine for satin stitch. Attach cord stitcher and sew outlines of monogram. Watch that seams do not overlap at oints of letters. Ask your Piaff dealer to show you the Ornamentograph, the in geniously designed monogram and ornamental stitch attachment. You will marvel at its versatility and delight in the countless creative possibilities which it adds to your Automatic. 50

14 .

Cording Stitch Length:

This I

2

To cord, use Cording Kit No. 50117 available at extra cost. R 7373

set

consists of:

4double-needle holdersfor needle distances of ‘/io, /o4, 3/ and 1/64 inch, 3 cording feet, 3 cording plates (2 with cord ducts and 1 with center claw), and I package of System 130 B needles. Additional parts for heavier cording are available at extra cost. The interchangeable doubleneedle holder is eosy to attach.

R 7370

Changing the Needle Holder Bring take-up leverto highest point, loosen small set screw and change needle holders. Tighten set screw securely. The large needle holder screw must always point toward the right. Use System 130 B round-shank needles in l/ and 5 /64-inch double-needle holders, and System 130 R flat-shank needles in 3/35 and 7 /o4-inch needle holders. To attach cording plate refer to instructions on page 48 for mounting feed cover plate. 51

Increase the bobbin tens ion slightly for cording. Pfaff recommends you your cording so it keeps its fill shape in the loundry. Fill er cord thickness depend on cording size you won s t. To sew filled cording use the two cording plat with cord ducts. es Only very narrow tucks ore made without fille r cord. E—0 B—0 C—2 D—0 Additional Informatio n on Cording Ordinary cording in medium-heavy fabric is made with cording No. 41319 and cording plat foot e No. 60417. For thicker cording use foo t No. 41 318 with cordin g plate No. 60419. MachineSetting:

Threading Diagram for Two Needles Your upper tension has a third disc so threads ore separat ed as they are threaded through the tensi on.

Cording foot No. 41641 and plate No. 60417 (wi th center claw, but withou cord duct) serve to make t narrow air tucks in ligh tweight material. Pin tucks also are mad e with cording foot No. 41641, but without cor plate. Cording plate No. ding 60415 with high center claw is used chiefly for cording in thick felt. Cording height and wid th are determined by the distance between the two needles, the cord diameter and the height of the ridg e on the cording plate. Thread tensions also infl uence cording size. For uni form spacing of parallel tucks, attach an adjustable guide to the cording foo t. Wh en space between tucks is very narrow, plac e the preceding seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a gui de. This procedure insu res uni form and parallel rows of cording.

52

R6945

4088

Two-Needle Decorative Sewing The eight block symmetric patterns on the narrow-stitch side of the dial wheel con be sewn with two needles, if the needle gouge does not exceed /o* inch. To make them, no machine parts have to be changed. If any of the other designs ore sewn with two needles, the needle plate, machine feed and sewing foot must be changed. Your Pfoff dealer will do this for you. These ports have wider slots to allow for movement of both needles. To sew these two-needle /a inch. designs, the stitch width must be increased to a scant 1

R 5966

R7178

Two-needle designs are particularly attractive when sewn with different color threads. The sewing abilities of your PFAFF Automatic are practically unlimited. Interesting effects can be obtained by combining various designs, embroider ing colored ribbons, glamorizing a garment with lace or rick-rack attached well, you probably can think of many with a line of Automatic stitches and articles which would take on new life with a touch of embroidçry. Your PFAFF Automatic will help you solve decorative problems and will stimulate your creative fancy. ——

53

R 7137

r .4 Three-Needle Decorative Sewing

‘iii’

If you want to do ‘/4-inch, threeneedle decorative sewing, the needle plate, machine feed and sewing foot must be changed. In addition, it is advisableto use spool holder No. 53137, which slips over the regular spool pins (see illustration) and is avail able at your Pfaff store. The third thread is led to the needle with the second thread. You can sew the same pattern with three needles that you can make with two needles using the regulation machine parts.

R 7175

Automatic Embroidery Interesting design effects are easy to make by combining Automatic patterns. Now you can make flower petals and other intricate designs. The more familiar you are with your machine, the more inspired you will be toward creative sewing.

R7176

54

The Transverse Spool Holder To ensure that the thread will unw ind evenly from a cross-wound spoo l. use the transverse spool holder which is port of the standard equipment of your machine. To attach the spool holder, slip posi tion spring I over the vertical spoo l pin, the bent portion of the spring poin ting toward you. Push the spool of threo d on spool pin 2. Press the position pin together, and push pin 2 into the sprin g slot. With the spring pressed together, adjust its position on the vertical spool pin, as required. When you release the spring, the transverse pin will be held in placefirmly. Pass the threa d through eyelet 3, and thread the machine as instructed.

R 6S3

55

Contents Foreword Essential Parts of Machine Fundamentals of Machine Operation Important Points to Remember The Snap-Out Workplate Electrical Information Straight Stitch Sewing Zigzag Sewing Setting Machine for Automatic Embroidery Winding the Bobbin Removing the Bobbin Case Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case Inserting the Bobbin Case Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes Important Facts about Needles Changing the Needle Upper Threading Operating the Automatic Needle Threader Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Correct Tension Regulation Regulating the Thread Tension Stitch Length Regulation Dropping the Machine Feed Changing the Sewing Foot The Darning Foot Care and Maintenance Sewlight Facts Adjusting the Motor Belt Tension Trouble Shooting

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.

Page .1 .2 .4 .5 .6 .7 .8 .9 10 12 14 14 15 16 17 17 18 20 21 22 23 24 24 25 25 26 28 29 30

Zipper Insertion Edge Stitching Quilting Flat Felled Seams Rolled Hems Hemming Overcasting Edges Butt Seaming Attaching Lace Inserting Lace Inserting Patches Single-Needle Cording Shirring Applique Work Openwork Embroidery Scalloping Scrollwork Imitation Hemstitching Blindstitching Automatic Blindstitching Sewing Buttonholes Button Sewing Darning Monogram Embroidery Sewing Monograms Cording Two-Needle Decorative Sewing. Three-Needle Decorative Sewing Automatic Embroidery The Transverse Spool Holder .

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56

Page 33 33

35 35

37 37 38 39 39 40 41 42 42

45 47 48 50 50 51 53 54 54 55

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I

A. C. WEBER & CO., JNC. Di3tributor • Chicago

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